Less Is More: Hermès Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune

Skeleton watches can be tricky to pull off. As such, openworking a watch’s movement, giving it pride of place as the “dial,” should, ideally, be attempted only if skeletonization is truly going to elevate that timepiece to another level.

We’ve all seen brands fail at the art of skeletonization, with results ranging from the overly busy to the unbalanced to the plain unattractive. But when they are done well, skeleton watches are to be admired.
 

And with its Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, Hermès has shown it is one of those watchmakers that “gets” skeletonization and less really can be more.

It certainly helps that the Squelette Lune is part of the Slim d'Hermès collection. And to match the distinctive tone of this line introduced in 2015, any openwork model always needed to be minimalist and clean. In short: and not too busy.
 

It also helps, of course, that Hermès Group owns a 25-percent stake of Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier and can therefore draw on its capacity to develop an extra thin, micro-rotor, moonphase movement specifically designed to be skeletonized. And it is the openwork calibre H1953 that forms the harmonious dial of the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune.
 

At 6 o’clock, the double moonphase display is seamlessly incorporated into the black-gold flange, decorated with a brushed sunray motif. While the moonphase bears realistic lunar depictions similar to those used on Hermès’ acclaimed Arceau L’Heure de la Lune, the flange features a minute track employing the Slim d’Hermès signature typeface, designed by French graphic designer and typographer Philippe Apeloig.
 

The Squelette Lune’s 39.5mm case retains the traits that have come to characterize the Slim d’Hermès collection, namely a slim profile, tapered lugs, and slender bezel.
 

Here, the caseband and back have been made in bead-blasted grade 5 titanium, giving a slightly raw aesthetic, while the bezel, in polished 950 platinum, and crown, in 18K white gold, add a sumptuous touch. The watch comes on a matte graphite alligator leather strap with a grade 2 titanium pin buckle.